October 25th, 2007
Hide & Seek - nature photography in South Africa
Africa is not only earth’s largest continent, but probably the most diversified. Narrow that down to just South Africa and you still have what is often referred to as “a world within a country.” Actually, it only includes 3.8 percent of the continent. While seeking photographic locations on one visit, I narrowed that down to just the eastern portion of South Africa–the Indian Ocean side.
Kruger National Park alone covers over 7500 square miles and it is but one of a multitude of parks and reserves. This bit of reminiscing is not about the well-known game areas. It doesn’t begin to cover the potential subjects in even a single park or reserve. What does seem worth sharing are excerpts from three hours of sitting in a hide observing the parade of creatures that visited the water hole below.
Hluhluwo and Umfolozi Reserves date to 1895. Although they have been combined, a fork in the road requires decision making upon approach. Seeking out a single hide in Mkuzi one sunny morning turned out to be an unforgettable experience that combined this photographer’s love of both photo travel and nature. In South Africa game areas, “hide” is the name given to unique structures designed to allow observations without disruption of the local residents’ natural behavior. Americans usually refer to similar conveniences as blinds.
Parking areas are located several hundred yards from the water holes. Paths to viewing structures have high fences on both sides that shield visitors from surrounding wildlife. Signs request silence so human noises will not disturb the normal behavior of fauna. At the end of the path a few stairs lead to a completely roofed platform with protective siding. Only a narrow strip is open for viewing the water hole environment. Fortunately, the open viewing strip does enable most camera lenses to have a clear view of the action below. South Africans discourage light-colored clothing for observers, as well as the protrusion of anything through the narrow opening other than binoculars or cameras. You are apt to be hushed if you were unfortunate enough to have worn garments made from fabrics that rustle with movement.
Two camera bodies and lenses that covered a range from 28 to 300 seemed quite adequate for the occasion. Of course, a large supply of film was a major necessity. During my short period of shooting from the hide, I found myself debating just which way to point the camera. Worthy subjects in every direction were often visible simultaneously. Two matched camera bodies were very helpful. One was operated on a tripod while the other was ready to move rapidly for hand holding while trying to capture unexpected happenings. An image stabilizer can come in handy for that purpose.
The variety of animals that approached for their morning drinking session was amazing. They came solo, in pairs, trios or groups and I was tempted to snap faster than my motor drives would permit. Whether wading into the water or daintily reaching from the muddy edges, it all appeared to be a pleasurable part of their routine. Of course, drinking was not their only mission. Some lingered to socialize, to wallow in the mud to suckle their young or spar with competitors.
Occasionally a severely injured animal ventured in. One wildebeest had apparently become entangled in a fence. When unable to free himself he had apparently managed to escape by breaking the wires. The poor critter had a wire noose cutting deeply into his forehead with strands of wire dangling from the open wounds.
South Africa is the only natural habitat for nyalas. They are beautiful, nonaggressive creatures. The male’s dark gray coat is trimmed with a tuft of white hair along the top and a few matching strips at the sides. Brown legs and white facial markings are characteristic of that antelope species. Females are a warm, tan shade and feature multiple stripes. Their stripes are more plentiful than those the males sport and, for some unknown reason, always appear in odd numbers.
It was fascinating to watch two handsome bucks attempting to declare dominance. Instead of bumping antlered heads or engaging in any behavior that may result in marring their beauty, they had a strutting contest. When one conceded his loss and departed the scene, the winner proudly continued to strut to the water hole. Unless traveling with a mate, they appear to be solo creatures.
Apparently nyala are plagued by parasites that inhabit their antlers, for we were able to witness a cleansing operation. Without sailing his showy coat, one buck buried his antlers in mud and appeared to scrub them quite thoroughly. A huge wildebeest invaded an area near some zebras and actually rolled in the mud. Warthogs often display that behavior, but witnessing a wildebeest wallowing on his back with four legs waving in the air seemed very unusual.
Baboon troupes were also a special treat. Youngsters were old enough to ride on their mother’s backs as the adults grouped together and enjoyed a leisurely visit to the water. Grevy’s zebras were targeted toward their drinking area and did not loiter for long when their mission had been accomplished. Visiting wildebeests must have finished grazing before they arrived at the water holes. They loitered around for quite awhile and then settled down to rest in the shade of nearby trees. Birds also joined in the grand pageant. Colorful louries flitted about tree branches while turtles and lizards made their presence known by basking in sunlit areas.