October 26th, 2007
SOUTH-EAST ASIA - Q&A: A spot of tiffin, a whiff of colonialism
Q. I have just booked a two-week holiday to Penang with my wife and two sons aged 12 and 14. We’ve never travelled outside Europe before and are keen to get the most out of the trip. We don’t just want a tropical beach holiday - we want to get a grasp on the history and culture of the island if possible. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Robin Bennett, York
A.You’ll find plenty to keep you occupied in Penang. Until the arrival of the British with The East India Company in 1771 the island was no more than a series of fishing villages ruled by the Sultan of Kedah. The Brits rather pompously renamed it Prince of Wales Island. Although it was always known as Pulau Pinang (meaning “Betel Nut Island”), the name did not officially change back until Malaysian Independence in 1959.
Today the capital, Georgetown (named after George III), is a bustling, multicultural centre that’s a paradox of past colonialism and the present fervour for economic development. The British have very much left their architectural footprint here. The dishevelled Fort Cornwallis in the northeast is a reminder of colonial struggles.
The greatest monument to colonial days must be the Eastern & Oriental Hotel (00 60 4 222 2000; www.e-o-hotel.com), which recently reopened after renovation. This was a retreat of tiffin and G&Ts, where the likes of Somerset Maugham escaped the tropical sun, and your sons will probably enjoy afternoon tea in the Conservatory.
However, it is the myriad of cultures which coexist that makes Georgetown enchanting among the apparent chaos of tooting horns. Chinatown is full of beautifully crumbling Chinese shophouses. The Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, on Lebuh Leith, has been refurbished to a striking example of 19th-century Chinese architecture. The exterior walls are painted a vivid blue, and the inside is like an Orientalist’s dream dollhouse - or a film set, which it is frequently used for.
Penang is celebrated for its food, and the boys are bound to appreciate the open-air food stalls at Gurney Drive. An unusual cuisine you may all enjoy is called Nonya - once the term for a Chinese woman who dressed like a Malayan, yet retained her own customs. Today Nonya is used to describe the fusion of the two cultures, and encompasses everything from clothes and cuisine to art and architecture.
As elsewhere in South-east Asia, shopping is an important element of any holiday. For antiques head to Jalan Penang. The newly renovated Garage, across the road from the Eastern & Oriental Hotel, is an air-conditioned craft centre. If its electronics and gadgets you’re after, the KOMTAR Tower, a modern shopping centre, dominating Georgetown is the place - though don’t expect prices as keen as those in Singapore or Hong Kong.
To escape the heat of town, and to have a fun afternoon out, it is worth taking a trip up Penang Hill on the funicular railway. Not only is it much cooler at the top but it also gives a panoramic view of the island and across to Butterworth on the mainland. On the way down you can walk through the Botanical Gardens and maybe join in a free tai chi lesson.
Penang is also packed with temples of every kind. If you feel like getting out and about, the best way to see them - and explore more of the island - is to hire a car. Wat Chayamangkalaram is a Thai temple on Lorong Burma. A couple of fierce and garish demon statues guard the 33-metre reclining Buddha that lies inside. The interior houses the ashes of many ancestors - plus a selection of automated fortune telling machines. If you carry on west you will come to the Hindu Temple of Nattukkottai Chettiar where the annual Thaipusam festival takes place. Take the road south on this clockwise route from Georgetown and towards Gertak Sanggul to the Snake Temple, where reptiles have been seeking refuge for over 100 years. A detour east will take you to Batu Maung a little-known site that has a 33-inch footprint in rock said to be made by the monkey god Hanuman as he stepped across the ocean.
To continue in a clockwise direction, backtrack to Bayan Lepas and take the road to Teluk Bahang and the Titi Kerawang Waterfall, which is really more of a trickle; the Butterfly Farm however is well worth a visit. A huge netted area containing a steamy landscaped garden, once inside it takes a while to focus on the psychedelic butterflies surrounding you.
Another tip, although you don’t say where you are staying, on the road from the big beach resorts of Batu Ferringhi around the hills to Georgetown, you will pass a small cove called Moonlight Bay. This is one of the best places to swim on the island.
Q.We’re planning a trip to Australia next Easter. Because we don’t want to impinge on the schooling of our twin daughters (Beth and Susie, aged 8), we’re not going to stop over on the way to Sydney and back. But which of the possible transit airports is going to be best to stretch our legs at the refuelling stop?
Alison Rodgers, by e-mail
A.You’re timing your trip well - fares to Australia are at their lowest between April and June, and Easter in Sydney can be beautiful - warm but autumnal, with fewer tourists than usual. Expect to pay as little as pounds 500 per adult and pounds 375 for each of the girls. The cheapest fares are likely to be on Malaysia Airlines via Kuala Lumpur. This smart new airport isn’t the most fascinating in Asia, but it’s well organised and has a few diversions, such as an internet area.