October 26th, 2007
YOU’LL GO FARO
THE Moors called it al Gharb - the Western lands - and it was one of their favourite places for more than 500 years.
These days the thousands of northern Europeans who have settled here feel much the same way about the Algarve, Portugal’s sunny southern coast.
You can’t go wrong if you follow their ex-pat lifestyle…a leisurely coffee in a cafe, followed by a spot of shopping or perhaps a round of golf. And dining out isn’t a problem with a three-course meal costing pounds 8 and a bottle of wine around pounds 2.
The Algarve is the kind of laid-back place where you can take it easy. There are no hidden hassles for the unwary traveller. Just relax on the beach, take advantage of what is arguably the best seafood in Europe and enjoy the good-natured hospitality of your Portuguese hosts.
Thousands of football fans will be heading to the Algarve next summer for the European Championships. Many key matches will be played in Faro’s impressive stadium, the new home ground of Farense.
But why wait until summer? The Algarve has one of the best climates in Europe. By February the almond blossom is flowering, the days are lengthening and prices are cheap. If you strike it lucky it will be warm enough for sunbathing, but at the very least you should be able to enjoy lunch outdoors.
Early winter or spring are good times to explore the countryside. Visitors who do will discover hills, woods, castles and villages where life has not changed that much since the Moors left.
BEST RESORTS
TAVIRA to the east is a charming little town on the river Gilao. It is very relaxed, and fast becoming a trendy place for a quiet holiday.
There’s no beach in town - instead, take a ferry to one of the sandy offshore islands, or stay in Santa Luzia (the octopus capital of the Algarve) or Cabanas just along the coast.
Explore the Serra de Alcaria do Cume just inland - hill country where rock roses, lavender and other wild flowers run rampant.
Albufeira, the Algarve’s largest and busiest resort, is right in the centre of the province. Everything is within day-trip range, from the wild western coastline to the Spanish border in the east at the Guadiana river.
Nightlife is lively with plenty of buzzing clubs and bars. The resort is the base for Zebra Safaris - four wheel drive tours into the interior over terrain most cars can’t handle.
Lagos in the west is a stylish resort that attracts young surfers from all over Europe in summer and has oodles of history any time of the year.
It was from here that Henry the Navigator sent his fleets to explore the globe in the 15th Century. The Portuguese were the first Europeans to cross the equator, navigate around Africa and reach India by sea.
They “discovered” South America, landed in Australia 200 years before Captain Cook and were the first to trade with China and Japan.
BEST EATS
DO as the Portuguese do and eat grilled sardines at the cluster of little restaurants by the bridge in Portimao.
TRY some of the local specialities: caldeirada (a hearty fish and potato stew); cataplana (named for the copper wok-like cooking pot, it’s a delicious stew of fish, clams and chorizo sausage) and chicken piri piri (grilled chicken marinated in a spicy chilli-based sauce).
HAVE lunch by the harbour at Olhao - the seafood from here is transported all over Portugal.
LEAVE some space for sweets and pastries. You’ll find them at a cafe or pastelaria (cake shop) rather than a restaurant. Some that you may like to try include morgado de figo (fig cake), doces de amendoa (marzipan fancies), bolos de mel (honey cakes), tarte de natas (rich cream sponge) and pasteis de nata (custard tarts).
IF you’re not a fish fan, the local lamb and pork is better than beef. Try some presunto (air dried ham) from Monchique - the pigs graze on acorns in the oak woods.
HEAD off to the local market rather than a supermarket if you are self-catering. The fruit and veg are all fantastic.
BACK TO NATURE
MOST people’s first view of the Algarve is the panorama of salt flats, barrier islands, lagoons and marshes as their plane approaches Faro Airport. This huge nature reserve is one of the most important wetland areas in Europe and home to many rare birds.
Head for the Ria Formosa information centre between Faro and Tavira and you can go on walks past Roman remains. There are also well-stocked marine aquariums and a water dog breeding centre. These gorgeous rough-coated dogs are one of the oldest breeds in the world and were bred by fishermen. They have webbed feet and used to drive fish into the nets or pass messages between boats before the days of mobiles, as well as guarding the catch.
There’s another nature reserve in the far west, and here Horizonte, a tour company based in Salema, west of Lagos, run four- wheel drive tours. The west coast beaches are magnificent and much favoured by surfers riding the Atlantic rollers. Three of the best are Praia do Martinhal near Sagres, Praia do Amado, Carrapateira, and Praia de Monte Clerigo.